Angkor Wat is where we'll see the sunrise. Romance this early morning, just Cool Cuz & me watching the sun peek over the stupas.
It's so dark here in the jungle leading to the wats.
I can hear the monkeys chattering and the bugs are load as hell. As we weave through the jungle roads on our approach to Angkor Wat I am getting a glimpse of the monsterous moat surrounding the entire complex. 5 1/2 miles of water encompassing 1.5 kilometers wide x 1.75 km long of temple land inside the safety of the compound. The moat was filled with wild crocodiles in the day and not a pool that looks inviting without them even today.
Crossing the walk bridge into the TempleWe arrive at the entrance to the bridge way in the dark. As we feel our way through the first few entrances we take care not to step into the multitude of holes peppering the ancient slate & sandstone walks. No electricity or lighting visable.
As we enter the humongous central courtyard (more like a huge city park) the natural light of the horizon is starting to filter into the square. It immediately becomes apparent why we were told by everyone to be early in order to beat the crowd.
From the look of things, as we feel ourselves through the darkness, it's hard to imagine how early most of these people must've woken up.
There were literally thousands of people here already and it was just shy of 6am.
We headed straight for the vendor section, specifically #5. To my knowledge this was the only wat that provided food and kios within the temple walls. It was much appreciated as Cuz & I were sitting and sipping some fine Cambodian coffee at a plastic table within minutes of arrival.
Still 35 minutes to sunrise but our lawn seat/table had a perfect vantage point to witness the start of the day over the temple crowns.
As I was finishing my morning soup (went well with my coffee) an official Angkor Wat guide named Sintu (certified through the board of tourism) asked if we'd like to hear the official story.
We were approached & offered a $10 tour by a less official looking chap before we entered but declined this early request in the darkness considering we would have ample opportunity to reassess once we were inside.
After a brief negotiation we agreed to a fair price ($13) & hired our tri-lingual (Khmer, English, Spanish) expert.
We only have a couple hours til I have to meet the students and be in a bus back to Phnom Penh. Jordan and the group fly home tonight but first have an 8 hour trip back to PP.
Our guide begins with explaining how Angkor Wat came to be.
Although today this is a primarily Buhtist culture, it was not always. In 1118 AD the King who commissioned Angkor Wat was Hindu. Buhtism as well as Hinduism originated in India but I guess the first architects among them (at least around here) were Hindu because it was not until the turn of the 17th century that Angkor Wat was claimed as a Buhtist prayer ground.
The carvings everywhere Vishnu, Hindu demons, god monkeys and Hindi culture tell a tale worlds beyond the one we see.
As Buhtism took hold hold the temes were spun into a slightly different spiritual landscape as figures of the new dawn joined with the original.
Unbelievable stonework installed by indentured servants and elephants took nearly 80 years to complete.
Great royal pools headlined the section of this first level.
Scattered in what appeared initially to be a random layout, Sintu explained the significance by pointing to the birthday pool, the King's pool, the East pool for example and a description of each. Not only was Angkor wat built solely as a place of worship, with no living quarters but because the King had it built, it as well as all the other shit in the land belonged to Him. Among other rules this meant that the pools were Only for the King. No one else used them except the old King (actually he was quite young).
In fact even the King didn't use the pools all that much. The Birthday pool for instance was use only on his Bday, once a year.
It was filled for the most part by rain water and was drained from time to time for cleaning by use of a small hole in this lowest corner of the wall.
Some of the other pools were less specified and probably a nice place for him to escape the Royal crowds when visiting to meditate. Nothin like a royal pool to take the edge off a steamy, buggy jungle meditation.
Ah it's good to be the King!
Our guide left us at the stairs after preparing us for the great climb to the highest point of the Temple.
All & all beautiful!
I'd have stayed all day again except the students were waiting, the crowds were building and the mid-morning sun was intensifying quickly.
We headed for our Tuk Tuk and left for Mom's.
(Mom's guesthouse)
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